Видео

Its just a different version

It certainly is. Isn't that crazy? The song is AI and I made the graphics. Its by Suno.

I actually got a little tired of the usual bands that I listen to: Rammstein, Heldmachine, Eisbrecher, Megahertz, Scwarzer Engel, Blut Angel, Die Krupps, Marzfield, Heidevolk and others so I actually created this one myself using software. You also might enjoy : Heiser-Der Sieg Naht. He has a few music videos that he has done and they are epic.

@@TheWorkBench well It sounds very familiar that's for sure and has the ame name from another song I've listened to none the less Great job

@@The_Mysterious_Gamer19 I wonder if it was this one: ruclips.net/video/s3--LaykyTo/видео.html

It was that exact one

Hello, You can send a video to : gaiusoctavious2021@gmail.com I should be able to get it , view it and let you know. Thank you.

@@neverbrokenauto You are very welcome. 😊

Hello, Normalmente, los cojinetes no se rompen y el rodillo de alimentación de metal estaría en buenas condiciones, pero los soportes de plástico que sostienen en su lugar el rodillo de alimentación y los cojinetes pueden romperse y crear juego en el rodillo de alimentación. Estoy pensando que es la pieza de plástico, ¿correcto? Normalmente, esta pieza se puede obtener a través de: uscutter.com/ Tienen su sede en los EE. UU. Había una empresa hermana que podría haber ayudado en el Reino Unido, pero desde entonces ha cerrado de forma permanente. De lo contrario, podría haber realizado el pedido a través de ellos. Es posible que haya otras tiendas de cortadores cerca de usted que tengan las piezas. Normalmente, habíamos obtenido piezas adicionales como esta de China en caso de que esto les sucediera a nuestros clientes. También puede consultar: www.sagacnc.us/ Si tiene este mismo cortador aquí en el video, dale me gusta. Lo más probable es que ellos fabriquen este cortador y puedan ayudarlo. Echa un vistazo a: www.secabo.com/en/vinyl-cutters/ Esta es una empresa alemana que podría ayudarte porque marcan sus cortadores de Saga, que posiblemente sea tu cortador y podría tener las piezas para reemplazar el roto. Normalmente, el rodillo de alimentación se puede desmontar desatornillando los pequeños tornillos que están en cada extremo, lo que permite que la barra de grano se deslice fuera de la barra lisa que está debajo y los cojinetes redondos podrían deslizarse y otro cojinete normal con el mismo radio podría funcionar. Lo que no sé/recuerdo es si el cojinete está presionado sobre la barra lisa que está debajo. No lo creo. Si tu cortador es algo como esto: ruclips.net/video/Dsda1CVRr4I/видео.html Sería la pieza de plástico la que se rompe normalmente. Aquí hay otro video de referencia: ruclips.net/video/jzBQrHApl_g/видео.html Pido disculpas, si todavía estuviera trabajando en esta empresa actual, haría el video para que lo veas y te ayudaría desde dentro de la empresa a resolver tu problema. Es importante que hagas referencia al cortador real que tienes por modelo y serie. De todos modos, intenté darte algunas referencias útiles para que, con suerte, te sirvan de ayuda con tu cortador en particular. Avísame si esto te ayuda en algo. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Normally the bearings do not break and the metal feed roller would be in good shape but the plastic supports that hold in place the feed roller and bearings can break and create play in the feed roller. I am thinking that it is the plastic piece correct? Normally this part can be sourced through: uscutter.com/ They are based in the U.S. There was a sister company that could have helped in the UK but it has since been closed down permanently. Otherwise you could have ordered through them. There could be other cutter stores close to you that have the parts. Normally we had gotten extra parts like this from China in case this happens to our customers. You could also check : www.sagacnc.us/ If you have this same cutter here in the video of like it. The chances are that they make this cutter and could support you. Check out : www.secabo.com/en/vinyl-cutters/ This is a German company that could help you because they brand their cutters from Saga which is possibly your cutter and might have the parts to replace the broken one. Normally the feed roller can be dismantled by unscrewing the small alien screws that are at each end allowing the grit bar to slide off the smooth bar underneath and the round bearings could slide off and a regular other bearing with the same radius could work. What I do not know/remember if the bearing is pressed onto the smooth bar underneath. I do not believe so thought. If your cutter is anything like this: ruclips.net/video/Dsda1CVRr4I/видео.html It would be the plastic piece that breaks normally. Here is another video to reference: ruclips.net/video/jzBQrHApl_g/видео.html I apologize, if I was still working at this current company I would make the video for you to see and help you myself from the inside of the company to solve your issue. Its important to reference the actual cutter that you have by model and series. I tried to give you some helpful references anyways to hopefully help your particular cutter. Please let me know if this helps at all.

@@MarkoKoivikkoFIN Right now I am doing 30-78 fps.

@@TheWorkBench yeah, i was seeing some changes for fps :D

@@MarkoKoivikkoFIN Last night as I was playing I saw from 60-101. I read that 15 is just basic, 30 is good and beyond is really good. I had to reference I had forgotten what was normal to high.

@@TheWorkBench yeh, all below 40 can be noticed

Hello, Please let me know which plotter you have and if the noise is coming from the carriage moving left to right or it is the feed rollers which move the material forwards and backwards. Normally if its a grinding noise it could be that the carriage is just off track and needs to be reseated onto the track. It has small wheels that it uses to roll left to right inside the metal track or sometimes the plastic wheel can be damaged and then off the track If it is the feed rollers, it is possible that the rollers are either loose and could be slightly coming into contact with the metal frame. It could also be that the holding block, a plastic block that holds the feed roller bearings in place has failed or moved making it slightly out of place. If the carriage upon turning it on, makes a grinding /buzzing noise and slams to the right this normally is a motherboard failure or that the carriage motor port on the board is bad. You can check this by changing the motor ports to the opposite port so that the feed roller motor is in the carriage spot and that the carriage motor connectors mind you is in the feed roller spot. This will make the feed rollers make a grinding sound so this verifies that the motor port is damaged. Depending on which cutter that you have may also have different issues. Turn the cutter off. Unplug the USB and the power cord. By hand, move the carriage to the left and to the right. Is the movement smooth and quiet or is there noise? Do the same to the feed rollers. Roll them by your fingers forward and backwards and also check for play or that the movement of the feed rollers sinks in on the left or the right or perhaps feels loose in the middle. The feed rollers have very small allan key screws that hold them onto a rod that rotates, it is possible that one of the allan screws on the left, right or middle of the feed rollers is loose and making the noise. Please let me know what you find out. It may give a clue for me to troubleshoot further.

@@christielopez1553 You're welcome. :)

@@thegirlthatprints8190 I apologize for the late reply. This servo cutter is a hearty cutter that can cut thicker materials. It's combined with great cutting software that's always being developed for better cutting and contour cutting. It can also work with HP Latex printers to contour cut. I have had one for 3 years and only had to buy a couple new parts and back up and running.

@@richardcollier4076 Usually this cutter comes with Vinyl Master which helps you to go through the setup steps. As you learn with tutorials, you'll be able to see what you can do with the cutter. I'll try to get some links posted for you tonight.

Here is where I will post the links that I find: ruclips.net/video/s9HIIRqekyo/видео.html Cutter setuo: ruclips.net/video/COJzZyucPdc/видео.html Cutter software: ruclips.net/video/odRtDX9OmZw/видео.html Cutter software download how to: ruclips.net/video/bRduZcqLjfw/видео.html Setting the blade on your cutter: ruclips.net/video/m518-gpWCsI/видео.html How to load vinyl into the cutter: ruclips.net/video/8Lbm2RI6YbQ/видео.html Vinyl Master webinar tutorial: ruclips.net/video/V5F72BEcHVc/видео.html USCutter support site for the SC cutter: support.uscutter.com/support/search?term=sc+cutter How to setup your blade: ruclips.net/video/huQEw7uv-Lc/видео.html

The extra holder IS for the pen adapter. This is used for plotting your cut before actually cutting material. You can also do drawings with it too. You can experiment with this by flipping your vinyl on its white backing. The pen should be able to plot or draw on this surface. You can also do technical drawings as well.

That does sound odd. If you have the old screen try reattaching that and see if anything pops up. It could be the ribbon cable going out/damaged. I forget if inside the cutter there are 2 of the same ribbon cable in which you can switch them and see if the screen comes on. Regardless of the screen can you still send jobs from the cutter software to the cutter? You possibly got send a failed LCD screen. I would see if they can send you another in the meantime. Sometimes companies will let you send pictures or a video link say from YT to view the screen not working in order to send out another. I would ask them to send a ribbon cable too. Hopefully the port where the ribbon connects to the motherboard is good, no bent/missing pins, no cuts bends in the ribbon cable. If you can still send a cut to the cutter then this is good. Normally when these would go out and the customer needed a new one we also shipped out a known/good working ribbon cable and screen that worked at our shop.

Hello, Ill do my best. If you have a heat press like this normally you will want to turn the pressure knob to the left releasing any pressure that you may have. Unplug the clamshell then open the back panel. Normally when the pressure knob does not move at all, the two nuts on the threading has come together and locks it up in the back. They need to be seperated. Next take a look at the screw-bolt that has to do with the pressure knob. Normally these 2 nuts on the threading can be moved around in order to help you close the clamshell properly with good uniform pressure. Sometimes you may have to use 2 wrenches to undo the nuts that sometimes get stuck together and will not budge. Once apart slowly start adjusting the nuts on the long threading that the pressure knob is connected to. Slowly slose the clamshell press and see where you are at on closing it. Adjust the nut more and once you have a good place to tighten them, do so. Next you will want to start adding pressure by turning the pressure knob to the right and slowly closing the press. Add more pressure and close to see if the added pressure closes properly, all the way and has as much equal force in all 4 corners of the press. You may have to adjust a bit but once you find the sweet spot on the press by these adjustments you should not have to make them again. Normally the press comes ready to work with no adjustments needed. Another issue could be that when you go to add pressure, the press bottom plate/base that the press is built on could be faulty allowing 'bend' to that plate or too much movement for the press to properly operate which could be a manufacturing defect. Not a lot but it happens. So make sure that when pressing that the bottom plate does not flex or the pressure knob bolt that increases/decreases pressure does not lean too forward or backwards. Let me know what happens.

Hello. There could be a few of issues. The first that comes to mind is that the driver may not be installed and look either as a printer or a COM port for your computer to recognize it properly. The firmwar could be corrupt and not able to get bast the boot point. It could also be set on the wrong printer driver and it would act like its not working or partially. The other could be the motherboard or that the USB board in the end cap has been damaged or loose. Depending on which cutter it is and which cutting software you are using there will be a driver install process and normally Vinyl Master software walks you through the connection process. is this an SC cutter or something else?

@@TheWorkBench thanks it’s vevor cutting plotters by kl-720A

@@reng635 I am guessing its the motherboard. It seems this cutter is close to the one in the video. If its stuck on 'welcome' see if you can still connect visa USB and in the sotware. Try and do a test cut from the software to see if it actally cuts. Also, there should be a 'test' button on the cutter and it could cut a square in a box, a star in a box or something else. Try to turn the vinyl over and do a test plot with the pen adaptor. If this is good, normally the motherboard is ok. On the top part of the cutter there should be 4 screws, 2 left and 2 right on the top part that covers the 'rail' where the cutter carriage moves left and right, a ribbon cable could have come loose. I have seen that before. If you do get a good test by USB and on the cutter itself, it could be just a LCD screen acting up once everything else is verified. The last thing is how the cutter is installed. If it installs like a printer, go to your printer settings and make sure that you only have one connection and not 4 or more with jobs lined up in them, You'd need to clear that out and reinstall again once time. Let me know.

@TheWorkBench thank you. I'll try your suggestions

@ hello again,the ribbons are secured,I changed the port to windows port (suggested from a video I watched,the man had connections problems)port to USB_cutter(the file is being sent but the machine still saying (welcome )and not receiving commands.

I believe that this is an Epson x5 printhead. it has 2 white, 2 clear, black, red, yellow, blue with a uv heat lamp that cures the UV ink. its comprised of the head, 2 ribbon cables going to the motherboard if I can remember correctly. The printhead, carriage sub board A, decorder input board which connects the 2 ribbons from sub board A to the bottom of the printhead. So it has 8 small ink catriadges, 8 tubes going to the ink tanks. You want to make sure to always maintain the head or ti will get clogged. The white ink has to be circulated by a pump which is onboard the machine. You want to make sure that no ink gets into the carriage otherwise it will deteriorate the ribbon cable that goes into the head and can cause print issues. Maintainance is vital. It does print very well and many different suraces that are prepped or made for UV prints.

Thank you for your comment. For sure if the pinch rollers have too much tension or not adjusted equally/properly this too can cause shifting as well as a vinly being pulled off of a heavier roll too can cause slight shifting if not prepulled for the job. I hope you have all of the quirks smoothed out.

@@TheWorkBench Yep! I do now By the time I got my pinch rollers adjusted to about the 3rd thread ring, the whole UScutter SC unit started behaving beautifully! Thanks!

My issue was the yellow grounding block located behind the seat left side just under the small fairing under the seat. I had an issue there and perhaps something is arching or loose so that the pump may not be properly grounded possibly. I would start there. It also won't hurt to replace the pump even which I had also done. This hopefully should help. Also, check in the nose of the front CBR fairing, there is a tilt sensor that will shut off the bike when it tilts/crashes to cut the fuel. This could be tilted and needs to be more upright. Also, check the relays that are also near the tank on the left side. These 3 things are the only things I can think of at this time.

Hola. En lo que respecta a las líneas adicionales que está haciendo el cortador, hay algunas cosas a tener en cuenta. Número uno, si tienes un gráfico o usaste uno de la web, si no está vectorizado y comienzas a hacer una pegatina con él, podría tener más de una capa y tendría que romperse con Sure Cuts a Lot o tal vez en Vinyl Master. Tendrías que separar las capas hasta que tengas una buena para usar. A veces la gente se olvidaba de vectorizarlo y de ahí venían esas líneas adicionales. La segunda es ver exactamente lo que son. Dale la vuelta al vinilo sobre su soporte de papel y luego usa la herramienta de adaptador colgante para 'trazar' pero no cortar el diseño de la pegatina, esto te permitirá ver qué está haciendo exactamente. ¿Son las líneas consistentes sin importar qué grapic / pegatina esté cortando o es solo esta pegatina? Asegúrese de hacer el 'corte de prueba' que está en el cortador y desconecte el cable USB. Creo que cortará una estrella en una caja. Debería hacer eso, si está estropeado o es malo, entonces podría ser la placa base. A veces, el "corte de prueba" es bueno, pero el cortador comenzará a cortar/trazar números y letras al azar en un lado, lo que es una placa base defectuosa. Hasta ahora, estos son los 2 mayores problemas que podría tener con un cortador MHMK2 de USCutter. Normalmente, los motores y otras partes de la cortadora no son el problema. Estoy seguro de que estás colocando el vinilo donde viene hacia adelante y hacia atrás sin seguir demasiado a la izquierda y a la derecha. No creo que se trate de líneas recortadas en las que, por ejemplo, un círculo no se cierra o las letras se ven extrañas. En Vinyl Master hay ajustes para sobrecortar y conseguir la mejor calidad. El tercer problema podría ser que el perfil del cortador no se configuró correctamente y el cortador se ha estropeado o causado un problema al azar. Todavía puede funcionar, pero si el controlador y el perfil en el software y la computadora no están configurados correctamente, puede causar problemas de corte. ¿Alguna vez el cortador ha causado un problema en el pasado? ¿Alguna vez el carro de corte ha hecho zumbidos y golpes a la izquierda o a la derecha? Hello, In regards to the extra lines that the cutter is making there are a few things to look at. Number one, if you have a graphic or used one off the web, if its not vectored and you start to make a sticker out of it, it could have more than one layer and it would have to be broken by Sure Cuts a Lot or perhaps in Vinyl Master. You would need to seperate the layers until you have a good one to use. Sometimes people forgot to vectorize it and thats where those extra lines came from. The second is to see extactly what they are. Flip over the vinyl onto its paper backing and then use the pend adapter tool in order to 'plot' but not cut the sticker design, this will let you see what its doing exactly. Are the lines consistant no matter what grapic/sticker you are cutting or is it only this sticker? Make sure that you do the 'test cut' that is on the cutter itself and unplug the USB cable. I believe that it will cut a star in a box. It shold do that, if its messed up or bad then it could be the motherboard. Sometimes the 'test cut' is good but the cutter will start cutting/plotting out random numbers and letters on one side which is a bad motherboard. So far these are the 2 biggest issues that you could have with an MHMK2 cutter from USCutter. Normally the motors and other parts on the cutter are not the problem. I am sure that you are placing the vinyl where it comes forward and rearward without tracking too far to the left and right.I don't believe that these are overcut lines where say a circle is not closing or the lettering looks strange. In Vinyl Master there are settings for overcut and getting the best quality. The 3rd issue could be that the profile for the cutter was not set up correctly and the cutter has been randomly messing up/causing an issue. It can still function but if the driver and profile in the software and computer is not setup correctly, it can cause cutting issues. Has the cutter ever caused a problem in the past? Has the cutter carriage ever made buzzing sounds and slams to the left or right?

@@TheWorkBench Hola muchas gracias por responder. los archivos que manejo son sencilloss yo mismo los he disañado en flexi, el probelam esta que hace una lineas en diagonal y otras formas raras tambien. No se si esta mal configurado el programa. he revisado pero no encuentro algun problema con ellos. Me podrias ayudar a configurar el Plotter?

@@yerssonsupelano6843 También puede intentar guardar los archivos como otro tipo de archivo y ver si eso ayuda. Creo que es la interpretación del expediente. Esta sería la única otra explicación de las líneas impares. Pido disculpas, pero no podría ayudar de esta manera. En la empresa utilizábamos software para iniciar sesión en los ordenadores de los clientes cuando les ayudábamos y podíamos hacerlo. Vería si pudiera llamar a la línea de soporte y luego podrían iniciar sesión en su computadora y asegurarse de que tenga todo configurado correctamente. 1 425 481 3555 Están más actualizados que yo en este momento. También puede enviar un ticket al soporte y ellos también pueden programar una llamada con usted. Creo que puede haber alguien allí que pueda hablar español. support.uscutter.com/support/tickets/new

Hello Bryce, This may indicate a couple of things. Normally it is an indication that the temperature controller, that whole box-like display needs to be replaced. It could also mean that there is a disconnection from the heating plate to the controller due to overheating and the wire does not conduct any longer. Normally when we saw this, we just changed out the controller but if we looked in more detail we saw the disconnection somewhere due to a burnt wire. I believe this is the wire that connects the red and black wires to the back of that temperature controller and if its loose or the wire has burnt out, you could get this 'HH' showing on the screen. Also, with the heat press unplugged, check the 2 black covered wires just behind the heating plate and see if its a white ash color indicating too much heat over time that has burnt the wire off the heating element. I believe that the red and black joined wire goes to the heating element and feeds into the controller to be able to sense the temperature of the element as it heats and cools to maintain the temp that you had selected. There also is a solid state relay in the back, screwed to the bottom, inside of the press once you take off the back. It should be a square, greyish object that has voltages and a red light on it indicating power. If that is broken or no longer conducting, this also could be the cause. The SSR, solid state relay I believe could be found on Amazon as well as the tempterature controller. There should be an exact number on it somewhere besides the XMTE like ' 618T' or something. USCUtter used to sell those parts but they were the older models from back in 2012 and I think 2018 that we had used to sell. I do not remeber exactly what that controller number is off the top of my head. It looks like USCutter is still selling it with a new temperature controller and even that could work. But it seems the shape of the old controller vs the new one would not fit. Transforsa Heat Press: uscutter.com/Transforsa-Clamshell-Heat-Press-15-x-15/ Digital Controllers: uscutter.com/uscutter-heat-press-replacement-parts/ Phone number for support: 425-481-3555 I would contact support and see if you can get a picture of the wiring behind the new controller and see if all wires connected are the same as what you have on the older controller. If they match, more than likely you could use the newer one. Sometimes, USCUtter will ask you to create a ticket, this way you both can share photos too. Submit a ticket: support.uscutter.com/support/search?term=create+a+ticket Setting the temp for the heat press: ruclips.net/video/CTIKdBqN9mo/видео.htmlsi=EkI9XEjaIhsQ4CPj Be sure to include photos and a good clear shot of the wiring and controller for support. I am hoping that its just a loose wire or a wire that has been burnt out and an easy fix. Let me know what you have found out.

Please i know it being long i mean the video but mine has 2 light and it shows red on the off indicator and never heat up